Hey everyone!
So my last post consisted of my first surf adventure in Indonesia, which was at Kuta Beach in Bali. My second adventure was on the island of Lombok at a surf destination called "scar reef". Yes, there is a reason for the name, the reef at this spot is pretty sharp, and when the waves get big, there's a lot of wipeouts. The consequences of wiping out here is not something to look forward to. This day I was pretty scared to say the least. This was the biggest surf I have ever been in in, it was a consistent 6 to 8 feet with the occasional, "oh crap" (10ft) set that came through. I survived this day, but I did get caught on the inside, which is something every surfer tries to avoid. It's basically when your paddling out to where the waves are breaking, and several waves (a set) decide to break or crash in front of you just before you can safely get over them or under them. The wave essentially crashes right on your head. The waves this day were very powerful so when that wave crushed my heart and soul, I was immediately washed onto shore, or in this case, the dry reef. Remember, this is a tropical island, so there wasn't beautiful white sandy beaches at this particular spot, it was flesh slicing reef. I paddled for dear life back out and around the channel to one of the boats, and I finally made it after 20 minutes of relentless paddling and a heart rate of 200. It was definitely an adventure of a lifetime. I'm also glad I had the opportunity to surf or attempt to surf such big and beautiful waves. If anything, it built my confidence. I will never forget the day at scar reef.
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